Art 185LJ 2024 Natural Dye Experiments
Instructor: Lisa Jevbratt
Syllabus

Flickr links:
All 185LJ 2024 photos (tag: 185LJ24)
Students (tags: 185LJ24 and selfie)
Lichen Jars Week 2 (tags: 185LJ24 and w2)
Eco printing and bundle dyeing (tags: 185LJ24 and ecoprint)
Home dyeing assignment (tags: 185LJ24 and home)
Lichen Jars Week 9 (tags: 185LJ24 and w9)
Chart (tags: 185LJ24 and chart)
Final project documentation (tags: 185LJ24 and final)
Class Activities and Assignments Due
Week 1 (April 5):

Dyeing with Tannins and Iron.
Where: We meet in The Dye Lab, Art 0641 (in the Atrium) at 10AM, from there we will walk out around the lagoon.

Handouts:
Tannins and Iron

Week 2 (April 12):

Dyeing with lichens 1
Where: Skofield Park, we will meet at 10AM on the parking lot [map]

I will email you about carpooling. Please make sure you have a ride.

Wear long pants, there is a fair amount of Poison Oak in the park.

We will be picking specks of Flavopunctelia flaventior from the ground. We will spend a couple of hours or so in the park then go to the dye lab.

Handouts
Lichen Dyeing
Poison Oak

Links
The Politics of Purple: Dyes from Shellfifish and Lichens
Lichen dyes in the Himalayas
LICHEN DYES (page 65-69)
Lichens as bio indicators
Litmus paper (ph indicators) and lichens
Beautiful swedish book from 1805 about lichen dyes by Johan Westring


Assignments Due:

Sign up for a Flickr account.
Post a picture on Flickr of yourself with the tags "185LJ24" and "selfie".

Look at ways to document natural dyes and color charts and think about how you will construct yours.
See examples on Lisa's pinterest board , Look for charts in 185 student images 2022, 2023,Lisa's exhibition 'Interlopings'
and look around on the web.


Week 3 (April 19):

What: Dyeing with mushrooms: Omphalotus olivascens (Western Jack-O'-Lantern mushroom) and Pisolithus arhizus (Dead man's foot)
Where: The Dye Lab

Handouts:
Mordanting with Iron
Dyeing with Omphalotus olivascens
Dyeing with Pisolithus arhizus

Tutorial
Dyeing with Jack O'Lantern Mushroom (a bit different)

Links
Jack-O'-Lantern dyes in online Mushroom Atlas
Dead man's foot / Dyers puffball dyes in online Mushroom Atlas


Assignments Due:

Post a current photo of your lichen jar to your Flickr account. Tag it with "185LJ24", "lichen" and "w2"

Watch Mushrooms for Color

Week 4 (April 26):

Dyeing with non-native plants and cochineal
Where: More Mesa, we will meet at 10AM in the parking area at More Mesa [Map]

Wear long pants, there is a fair amount of poison oak in the park.
We will be picking non-native plants and some cochineal. We will spend an hour or so in the park then go back to the dye lab.


Handouts:
Cochineal
Dyeing with Non Native Plants



Week 5 (May 3):

(Working with the samples from last week) Dyeing with cochineal. Mordanting protein fibers with alum.
Where: The dye lab

Handouts:
Cochineal
Mordanting silk

Assignments Due:

If you did not do so last week, watch Cochineal Red: The Art History of a Color

Week 6 (May 10):

Eco-Printing/Bundle Dyeing
Where: The dye lab

Assignments Due:

Post images of your dye samples from week 4/5 to your Flickr account. Tag it with "185LJ24" and "non-native" . In the image description, write about the plant you used: the name, and whatever interesting information you found about the plant and it's usage.


Bring flowers, leaves, veggie scraps etc. for eco-printing/bundle dyeing. (We will bundle-dye silk scarves mordanted with alum.)

Check out the videos/links below:

And there are many more videos on the subject, just search around if you are interested.

Week 7 (May 17):

Final project and chart discussion
Mordanting wool and silk
Where: The dye lab

Handouts:
Mordanting Wool

Due:
Post a photo of your ecoprinted silk to your Flickr account. Tag it with "185LJ24", "ecoprint"

Be prepared to talk about your ideas for your final project and your dye sample charts/display. (see details in week 10 below)
If you already have wool or silk items you will be using for your final project, bring them, we can do some mordanting in class.

Reading:
Search the web for alum, it's use and history, lots of interesting info for example:
Alum History
The strange story of why human urine was transported to quarries in North East Yorkshire

Week 8 (May 24):

Indigo and Shibori
Mordanting cellulose fibers
Where: The dye lab

Indigo handouts and info:
Making our indigo vat and dyeing
Various shibori techniques
Stitched shibori
More stitched shibori


Mordanting Cellulose fibers (such as cotton and linen):

1. Scour (click on instruction)
2. Mordant (make sure to use the alum acetate)

Mordanting Cellulose pdf (using the method in the video above)


Assignments Due:

1. Home dyeing experiments:
  • Make at lest two different dye baths with plants and/or food scraps (avocado pits, red cabbage, onion skins for makes interesting color.)
  • Dye the sample fabric you got in class for this assignment.
  • Make several colors from each dye bath by modifying the ph value using lemon/vinegar (acidic), baking powder (alkaline), Ferrous sulfate or rusty iron objects, and by altering time in the bath, the order in which you put the samples in etc.
  • Post photos to your flickr account. Tag with "185LJ24" and "home". Use the photo descriptions and titles to describe what plants/modifiers/process you were using.
  • Bring your samples to class.

2. Indigo research

Search the web for information about Indigo. Find information that is interesting to you, you can for example look for indigo traditions in areas where you (or your ancestors) are from. Be prepared to say something in class that caught your attention regarding indigo (it's use, history, politics etc.).

Recommended viewing:
Blue Alchemy: Stories of Indigo
(Watch for free on Kanopy.com if you have a SB or Goleta library card, unfortunately it does not work logging in via the UCSB library)

Week 9 (June 31):

Lichen, final project lab
Where: The dye lab

Recommended viewing:
Making Purple-Dyed Yarn from the Lichen Punctelia rudecta



Handouts:
Lichen Dyeing (making the dye)
Lichen Dyeing (dyeing)

Assignments Due:

IMPORTANT Bring your lichen jar to class.
Post a current photo of your lichen jar to your Flickr account. Tag it with "185LJ24", "lichen" and "w9"

Work on your final project and finalizing your charts.

Week 10 (June 7):

Final project critique.
Where: The dye lab

Assignments Due:

Final Project:

Use what you learned in class to dye something that can be "used": clothing, bag, towel, sheet etc. Or dye enough yarn or fabric to make something yourself.
Document the process of making the item and the final result on flickr. Describe how you mordanted, and what plants and modifiers you used. Use the tags "185LJ24" and "final".
Bring what you made to class.

Some inspiration:
Naturally dyed silk clothing

Dye Chart:

Create an interesting way to catalogue/display/store the samples you make throughout the quarter.
Bring chart/notebook/display to class
Document your chart on Flickr. Use the tags "185LJ24" and "chart".
Movies
Dyeing with Jack O'Lantern Mushroom
Mushrooms for Color
In Search of Forgotten Colours
Blue Alchemy: Stories of Indigo
(Watch for free on Kanopy.com if you have a SB or Goleta library card)